The ride from Munich to Salzburg was quick and soon we were in Salzburg trying to figure out where to stay. We headed to the tourist information office, but it looked more like a place to get info on tours and stuff and a sign said that 2.50 would be charged for booking accomodations. So we grabbed some info on Sound of Music tours and went to a pay phone. We figured we'd phone a couple places in the Lonley Planet first. The first place we phoned had a room, so we took it. By the description it looked to be the best and it had breakfast all for about 30 euro a night. After we hung up the phone we realised we didn't really know where it was. So we asked and were told to get on the S2 train. We looked at the board and saw it was leaving in 2 minutes, so we ran over and hopped on. We got off on the first stop and I booted up my GPS, only to find that it isn't working for some reason. It turns on and connects to bluetooth, but no satellite reception... crappy. So we still used the GPS maps and navigated the old fashioned way. It wasn't too far actually, but it was up a pretty steep hill. Once there we found that nobody was home, which was really strange, because I had talked to the lady not 10 minutes ago. Within a few minutes they pulled up in a car though; I guess they went to grab some groceries. After we settled in and grabbed a shower, we hit the short 5 minute train ride back to Salzburg to do some sight seeing in the sweltering heat. Neither of us was expecting Austria to be this humid and hot and in May too.
Salzburg literally means salt castle and with good reason. The area is very rich with salt, which made Salzburg virtually impenetrable. During a seige, back before canons were invented, all the cards lay with the defenders; the attackers would waste many times more men to take a castle, so the most effective way to take a well fortified castle was to camp out and set up an embargo to starve them out. Salzburg was rich with salt, which was a preservative, so starving them out would take years. So nobody really bothered trying and anyone who did lost. The only time Salzburg was taken was during Napolean's reign and the people of Salzburg just surrendered, not being interested in opposing Napolean's hordes. Other than having a very cool fortress, Salzburg is a very beautiful city with lots of gardens, has great shopping and has a brewery run by monks.
We needed to do some laundry today so we dropped our clothes off in a locker at the train station (2 euro is much better than the 5 in Paris). Then we headed off to the old town, where Cara got to scratch her shopping itch again. H&M, Zara, and a few more local shops. Then we went and checked out a couple of the churches, squares and fountains. Then we headed to the Catacombs, where we were surprised by the amazing 1 euro entry fee. After a few mintes we realized why though, they were tiny and not even any bones (the poster had bones). It was getting to be supper time and so we headed to the Monk brewery for a little barley dinner.
The brewery was huge and there was no less than 4 beer halls, all with 100-200 person capacities. It was a little less than half full this day (Tuesday) and most people where in the court yard hall. We sat out there too after grabbing a couple half litre steins. You could get half litre, full litre or boxes of beer. You pay, grab the appropriate glass,
rinse it out in the fountain and pass it to a guy who pours you a beer out of a wooden keg. I'm sure the wooden kegs are for show, but it looks good. After we sat around taking it all in for a few minutes we went and grabbed some beer hall food, 2 Salzburgers and a weird cooked bologna thing. I saw a bunch of Austrian guys lining up for the bologna thing, so we gave it a whirl, not too bad. After another couple of beers we headed
back towards the newer part of town, which took us through the Schloss Mirabell gardens. Built in the 1600s by an archbishop, they are very well kept. After picking up our clothes at the train station we went to a laundromat and dumped our clothes in a machine, where we used soap from Barcelona (thanks Mom). Then we went to kill a half hour on the internet where I posted the Brussels blog and we looked at getting to Croatia. It started looking like we might have a stop over on the way. Slovenia looks nice. So we picked up our wet laundry and hopped a train back to the B&B where we hung it out and went to bed.
Thursday morning we got up early and had the breakfast. I was a little disappointed, only a couple of buns and some jam, meat and cheese. Oh well we decided to hit a supermarket sometime during the day to get some fruit and veggies. Then we headed out on the...... Sound of Music Tour. Cara was extremely excited, but I was finding it hard to get excited since I've never seen the movie. Fortunately Cara's excitement was infectious. This is definately something bigger budget travels do, 33 euro each, but they picked us up at the B&B, so that was alright. Once on the bus, my suspisions were confirmed; it was filled with Japanese tourists, seniors and Americans. We met a cool older couple from New Zeland though and had a good talk about pine beatle and termites. The tour started up and our guide was pretty funny. She definately had a British sense of humor, but we both like British humor. After seeing a few of the houses and scenery used in the movie we headed to the lake district to see the church used in the marriage scene. After an hour of wandering around in the small town on the lake we headed back to Salzburg. The tour was pretty good, but I felt a bit rushed and most of the four hours were spent on a bus. But we got some good behind the scenes info, and Cara enjoyed it, which is what counts. The tour ended at the gardens, so we checked those out again and saw another couple props from the movie. Then we headed off to the fortress. Now I was in my element, cool castles and medieval warfare antiques. After the castle, we hit one more shopping stop. C&A where Cara's short search came to an end and I got a Swiss soccer jersey (I really like Switzerland). Then we rushed back towards the train station. We only had a half hour before our train left so we split up. Cara went to get groceries and I went to get internet to find out about trains and buses in Croatia. When we met up we decided that, because of the connections, we're going to stop in Ljubljana, Slovenia. Then, with only a few minutes left, we rushed to catch the train. On the train we realised we forgot to get money out and our B&B didn't do visa, so we had to get off and wait an hour for the next train. We got cash and ate some crackers and pudding, brooding about forgetting to stop at a bank. Stuff happens though and you can't really get down, because who wants to be down on vacation. When we finally got to the B&B we made dinner and then packed up a bit, anticipating an early departure the next morning.
Thursday morning we got up and had the skimpy breakfast again. This time we packed up and checked out to catch a train to the station. Once at the station we found our platform for our train to Ljubljana and waited. After about 20 minutes the train arrived and we got on. We were sitting in the Austrian part of the train and when we asked the conductor, we found that the train was going to split somewhere near the border and we needed to move to the rear of the train. We moved and found the Slovenian part of the train quite a bit less swanky. After Slovenia we plan to go all the way to Split then catch a bus to Plitvice and then another bus and a couple of trains to Munich, but that's not for a whole 5 days from now. Amazing how much you can get done in such a short time armed with a Eurail Pass. We are definately liking Germany and Austria (hardly ever are reservation fees required). So here we sit wondering what Slovenia will have in store for us.